To Cuba and Back

The narrative follows a journey from New York to Cuba, detailing the experiences and observations of a traveler aboard the United States Mail Steamer Cahawba. The voyage begins on a cold February day in 1859, with a diverse group of passengers, including Cubans, merchants, and vacationers. The ship's departure is marked by a sense of anticipation as it navigates through the icy waters towards the warmer climate of Cuba. As the ship crosses the Gulf Stream, the weather improves, and the passengers begin to recover from seasickness. The traveler reflects on the differences between the passengers, noting the frail health of some Cubans and the industrious nature of American merchants. The journey is filled with moments of camaraderie and conversation, particularly with the ship's captain, who shares insights about life in the navy and the challenges faced by officers. Upon arrival in Cuba, the traveler is struck by the vibrant culture and the stark contrasts between the lives of the wealthy and the impoverished. The bustling streets of Havana are filled with unique vehicles, colorful markets, and a mix of people from various backgrounds. The traveler explores the city, visiting notable landmarks, engaging with locals, and experiencing the local cuisine, which includes fresh fruits and traditional dishes. The narrative delves into the complexities of Cuban society, particularly the institution of slavery and the treatment of Coolies, Chinese laborers brought to the island. The traveler visits sugar plantations, witnessing the labor-intensive process of sugar production and the harsh realities faced by enslaved individuals. The descriptions highlight the economic importance of sugar to Cuba and the moral implications of slavery. Throughout the journey, the traveler grapples with the political climate of Cuba, reflecting on the oppressive nature of Spanish rule and the aspirations of the Cuban people for self-governance. Conversations with locals reveal a desire for change, as well as fears regarding the potential annexation of Cuba by the United States. The narrative concludes with a return to Havana, where the traveler reflects on the experiences gained during the journey. The observations made throughout the trip provide a rich tapestry of life in Cuba, capturing the beauty, struggles, and complexities of a society on the brink of change. The work serves as both a travelogue and a commentary on the social and political issues of the time, offering insights into the lives of those who inhabit the island.

By Richard Henry Dana, Jr. · First published 1859 · Genre: Travel Literature, Memoir, Historical Non-Fiction · 25 chapters

Contents

• Departure from New York -- Steamship Cahawba -- First Day
• Hatteras -- Gulf Stream -- Coast of Florida -- Routine of Steamer. Sunday, February 13. -- it is Cold and Rough, Though not at all Stormy, and those who are on Deck Wear Thick Coats and Caps. there is no Clergyman on Board, and we have no Religious Service. Capt. Bullock Used to Read the Liturgy himself, but in these West India and New Orleans Voyages there are Many Roman Catholics, and those who are not Romanists are of so Many Denominations, that he Received Little Encouragement in Maintaining an Official Worship; and it is no Longer Held, Unless there is a Clergyman on Board and a Request is Made by the Passengers
• The Passengers -- Warm Weather -- Coast of Cuba -- Pan of Matanzas -- First View of Havana, from the Sea -- Night off Havana
• Enter Havana, at Sunrise -- Harbor -- Shipping -- Landing -- Drive through Streets of Havana -- Hotel
• Cuban Hotel, and its Landlord, Rooms, Servants, and Guests -- Breakfast -- Fresh Fruits -- Houses and Counting Rooms of Merchants and Bankers -- Dr. Howe and Mr. Parker -- Dinner -- Opera Troupe -- Speech of the Cubans -- Afternoon on the Paseo -- Retreta at the Plaza De Armas -- Havana by Night
• Early Morning in the City -- the Chain Gang -- Soldiers -- Baños De Mar -- the Cathedral -- Mass -- Tomb of Columbus
• Gold and Silver -- Coinage -- Family Breakfasts -- Coolies -- Jesus Del Monte -- View of City and Harbor from Jesus Del Monte -- Taste for Proper Names of Towns, Shops, Etc
• A Máscara -- Spanish Troops -- Sunday in Havana -- Dinner at the Bishop's -- Interest in the Thirty Millions Bill -- Visits at Evening
• The Belen -- the Jesuit College, Brethren, and Pupils -- the Order of Jesuits
• Steamer for Matanzas -- Harbor and Water by Night -- Matanzas -- Coolies -- Gabriel De La Concepcion Valdez
• Railroad from Matanzas -- Views of Interior of Cuba -- Trees, Flowers, Fruits, and Cane Fields -- Sugar Estates -- Slaves Laboring -- Ingenio, La Ariadne
• First Day on a Sugar Estate -- the Coffee Estates -- Change from Coffee Estates to Sugar Estates -- Causes and Effects of this Change -- Cultivation of Sugarcane -- Making of Sugar -- Profits of Sugar Making -- Process of Sugar Making, in the Fields and Mill -- Division of Labor -- Engineer from the United States -- Treatment and Labor of Negroes -- Officers of a Plantation, and their Duties: Mayoral, Mayordomo, Contra-Mayorales, Boyero -- Duties and Cares of the Master -- Visit to Negro Quarters
• Trees and Flowers -- Chameleon -- Fruits -- Red Ant -- Meals and Routine of Life on Plantation -- Penitentiary, Lying-In Room, Etc
• Life of a Planter and his Family -- Coffee Estate of St. Catalina -- Afternoon Ride -- Departure from La Ariadne -- Return to Matanzas
• Matanzas -- the Cumbre -- the Yumurí -- the Family of Mr. C -- -- -- Ensor's
• Railroad from Matanzas to Havana -- Stations, Views of Interior, from Railroad Train -- Short Sketch of the Position of Cuba; its Productions, Resources, Civil and Political Rights, Religion, Professions, Sciences, and Literature -- Return to Havana
• At Havana -- Dr. Howe -- Trial of Señor Maestri -- Music of the Contradanza
• Mass at the Belen -- Worship in Cuban Churches -- Casa De Beneficencia -- Hospital Militar -- Sisters of Charity -- Worship of the Sisters in their Chapel -- Sick Soldiers
• Drive over the Paseo De Tacon -- Count De La Fernandina -- Cuban Nobility -- Hospital of San Juan De Dios -- the Presidio and Grand Prison; its Inmates, Discipline, Etc
• A Bullfight
• Habits of the Cubans, Beckoning, Smoking, Etc
• A Sale of Slaves -- Cuban Preserves -- Breakfast with Mr. -- -- -- the Census, and the Probable Number of Slaves, Free Blacks, Creoles, and Whites -- Lotteries -- Cockfight -- the Lopez Expedition
• Condition of Cuba. Different Classes of Whites, Spaniards, other Foreigners, and Cubans. Political Condition, before 1825, and Since 1825. Powers of the Captain-General. Diminution of Freedom, and Growth of Central Power. Army and Navy. Taxes and Revenue -- Religion, Past and Present. Past and Present Position of the Roman Catholic Church -- Free Blacks; their Numbers, Condition, Rights, and Prospects. Laws Favoring Emancipation -- Slaves. their Condition. Laws for their Protection. Execution of these Laws. Compulsory Sale. Purchase of Freedom. Bright Side. Dark Side. Marriage, Increase, and Importation of Negroes. Different Views of the Problem of Negro Labor -- Material Resources. Soils, Productions, Trees, Mineral Wealth, Coal. Climate. the Sugar Crop, and other Staples -- Education. Schools and Colleges -- Reflections and Suggestions as to the Future of Cuba. Independence. Annexation. Protectorate. Effects of her Geographical Position
• The Cahawba -- her Arrival -- Last Night in Havana -- Leave-Takings -- on Board the Cahawba -- Getting Underway -- Last Views of Cuba -- Night at Sea
• A Day at Sea -- Beautiful Night at Sea -- Coast of United States -- Death of Mr. G -- -- -- off the Outer Harbor of New York -- Pilot, News, Fishing Boats -- Sights on Entering the Harbor -- the Wharf -- New York Hackmen -- Leave-Takings, and Separation of Passengers -- End of the Voyage

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