In Troubadour-Land by Sabine Baring-Gould

Difficulty of finding one's way about in Arles -- The two inns -- The _mistral_ -- The charm of Arles is in the past -- A dead city -- Situation of Arles on a nodule of limestone -- The Elysian Fields -- A burial-place for the submerged neighbourhood -- The Alyscamp now in process of destruction -- Expropriation of ancient tombs -- Avenue of tombs -- Old church of S. Honoré -- S. Trophimus -- S. Virgilius -- Augustine, apostle of the English, consecrated by him -- The Flying Dutchman -- Tomb of Ælia -- Of Julia Tyranna -- Her musical instruments -- Monument of Calpurnia -- Her probable story -- Mathematical _versus_ classic studies -- Tombs of _utriculares_ -- Christian sarcophagi -- Probably older than the date usually attributed to them -- A French author on the wreckage of the Elysian Fields.

I do not know a more perplexing place anywhere to find one's way in and out of than Arles. During a fortnight spent there I never could hit my inn aright once on coming from the railway station. The place is like a labyrinth; but one of those labyrinths that our forefathers delighted to construct of pleached alleys of box or lime were always to be traversed when you possessed the key. There is no key, no principle whatever upon which Arles has been built. Every public edifice seems to be dodging round the corner, like Chevy Slyme, hiding from some other public edifice with which it is on dubious terms, or not quite on social equality, and wishes to avoid the difficulties of an encounter.