The Face of Manchuria, Korea, & Russian Turkestan by Emily Georgiana Kemp

Tamerlane's tomb is on the threshold of Samarkand, and is but the prelude which introduces the travellers to wonder upon wonder. The whole of the first day we devoted to it, so as to come with a prepared mind and yet quite fresh to the wealth of beauty that lies within the city. A fine avenue of poplars leads from the tomb to the imposing citadel, dipping into a deep ravine (where a wood market is always going on); as one mounts the hill the citadel seems to tower above the city. Its one relic of interest is the Keuk-Tash, a grey stone, ten feet long and four feet broad, said to have been originally brought from Broussa. This formed the seat from which Tamerlane dispensed judgment-one cannot say "justice"-and which in later days was used by the Amirs of Bokhara for the same purpose. A number of bazaars line the road, giving the impression of a busy, flourishing town, and the road is thronged with carriages, men on horseback, and carts. What a fascinating crowd it was. I must briefly describe its chief elements. The population is principally Sart, but there are Persians, Afghans, Kirghiz, and others. Some of their horses are splendid proudly-stepping creatures, and it is a marvel to see their trappings, handsomely embroidered cloths on which the equally handsomely decorated antique saddles rest. These are either painted or inlaid wood, and have a high peak in front; the stirrups are equally decorative, but fastened so short that the knees are always bent. The Sarts invariably ride unless extremely poor, and it is astonishing to see how fine some of them are, who yet have to carry home their purchases from the market, a somewhat incongruous effect being produced by these gorgeous creatures having an armful of vegetables.

If too poor to ride a horse, the Sart may at least be able to afford a donkey. Some of them have a closely veiled woman riding pillion; others will have their young sons riding before and behind them on the same horse. The Sarts wear long flowing cotton or silk robes of brilliant colours, especially affecting stripes, and high leather boots. On their heads they wear little gaily-embroidered caps, surrounded by a turban of dazzling whiteness, with ends coquettishly hanging down by the left ear on to the shoulder. A poor man may be only able to afford two or three yards of coarse white cotton for the purpose, but the rich man will have twenty or thirty yards of the finest muslin. Round the waist the men wear ornate belts, into which are stuck the knife with gold or silver jewelled handle in its sheath of leather, and in another case a comb, toothpick, and other et ceteras. Among the foot-passengers are a certain number of women dressed in long, grey-blue cloaks from head to foot, only just showing the wide trousers fastened in at the ankle; there is but the smallest peep-hole through a horsehair veil like a meat sieve. They are mere chattels, and are kept strictly secluded. The children in their gay clothes form a delicious contrast, and are as bright and merry as birds, full of mischief and fun; we had a good opportunity of watching them while sketching, and they were delightful neighbours for the most part, despite being rather distracting.