The Face of China by Emily Georgiana Kemp

The next morning we were just about to start, when the magistrate of the city was announced (imagine a ceremonious call at 7 A. M.! ), and he was ushered in, together with his present to us -- a tray containing fine pears, pomegranates, dates, and nuts. We accepted part (in Chinese etiquette this stands for "gratitude for his generosity"), and returned part ("humility of the recipient"). He was immediately served with tea and cakes, and explained to us that, owing to a message from the Governor of the province, he had been expecting our arrival and had prepared an inn for us. Understanding that we were just setting out on our journey, he only stayed a short time after we had thanked him for his hospitality, so that we were able to do our day's stage in good time.

The following day we started at 6 A. M., and managed our thirty-six miles in twelve hours, as the roads were in good condition. At midday we halted for lunch at an inn, where we were told that the magistrate had made preparations for our entertainment. A scarlet curtain was hung in front of the door; there were mats and carpet on the floor of the two rooms, coverlets on the _khangs_ ( = brick bedsteads), a good table and European chairs, scrolls on the walls, a white table-cloth, and, to complete all -- a champagne lunch! We declined the champagne, lager-beer, and most of the "plats," but enjoyed the chicken and eggs. The advantage of having the inns cleaned up and fresh mats put down is great. Our military escort, varying from one to four, is highly diverting, and they are usually mounted on shaggy ponies, on which they look quite fine, especially when they have their scarlet or yellow umbrellas up.