
"Kutb Minar" by Esther Singleton is an anthology of literary and travel accounts describing the great tower of Kutb Minar (Qutb Minar) and its surrounding ruins located approximately eleven miles south of Delhi, India, assembling the impressions of multiple writers to construct a composite portrait of one of the subcontinent's most storied monuments. The work opens with an account by G. W. Steevens, who frames Delhi itself as a city perpetually marked by conquest and loss — scarred by its spoilers yet still jewelled with the remnants of what they fought over. Steevens approaches Kutb Minar through a landscape already dense with historical wreckage: broken walls, tumbling towers, and rent domes representing the fragments of seven cities built by seven kings preceding present-day Delhi. At the tower's base, the question of its origin is deliberately left open — whether erected by Kutb-ed-Din, the slave who rose to Viceroy and then Emperor of Hindustan, or by his son, or by the last of the Hindu kings, antiquaries cannot agree. What matters is the monument's overwhelming physical fact: a five-storied tower standing two hundred and forty feet high, nearly fifty feet in diameter at the base and tapering to nine at the summit, its three lower stories of red stone fluted into alternating semicircles and right angles, its two upper stories faced with white marble. Tiny balconies mark the junctions of the stories, and bands of inscription girdle the shaft beneath each balcony. The vertical lines of the fluting create an impression of a single immense pillar — a column suited to the most tremendous temple imaginable, yet standing complete and seemly alone by virtue of its sheer scale. Steevens climbs to the summit and finds the view itself unremarkable: an infinite flat chess-board of young corn and fallow extending in every direction, the Jumna gleaming in the distance, nothing visible but land and land and land — which he identifies as the wealth of India and the secret of Delhi's greatness. The revelation comes not from looking outward but downward: from the tower's top, the surrounding ruins are suddenly comprehensible as the remnants of a town of mosques and tombs built over an earlier town of Hindu temples and palaces. In the court of the ruined mosque stands a solid wrought-iron pillar at least fifteen hundred years old, bearing a Sanskrit inscription commemorating Raja Dhava, who claimed undivided sovereignty of the earth. Steevens treats this figure with ironic pathos: the temples of generations that had already forgotten Dhava are gone entirely; the mosque of their conquerors is now itself reduced to a few shattered arches. Beyond lies the base of a tower that was to have been twice the height of Kutb Minar but was never completed. The tower itself has been damaged by earthquake, and much of it is restoration. Delhi has drifted almost out of sight, leaving these fragments to decay without even the consolation of neighborhood. The second section, by André Chévrillon, approaches the monument by carriage and frames the road to Kutb Minar as Asia's Appian Way — a dismal plain scattered with ruins from every century, left by three races and three religions across a dead expanse of seventy square miles. Chévrillon traces the geological metaphor of civilizational deposit: the Vedic age, the Brahmanical age, the Buddhist age, the first Muslim dynasties, and the Mughal Empire have each left a thin stratum, just as ancient forests exist now only as thin seams of coal. The landscape is populated solely by blue peacocks; generations have swarmed here and left almost nothing. Yellowish hillocks mark Indra-Partha, the legendary city of Indra from the Mahabharata; a granite pillar inscribed in Pali proclaims the edicts of the Buddhist king Asoka; Mughal mausoleums and domes, corroded by time, merge into the dry vegetation's uniform tint. Chévrillon reconstructs the layered history concentrated around Kutb: Hindu forts enclosing a city and Buddhist temples; a large iron post with Sanskrit inscriptions; then, around the year 1000, the overflow of the first Muslim hordes across the Himalayas, razing the city and building a mosque from the stones of the great temple. The ruins of that mosque now surround the visitor — a triple colonnade of repurposed Buddhist pillars dense with Hindu carvings of gods, animals, tigers, lewd monkeys, and elephants, some figures deliberately mutilated by Muslim conquerors and others still legible in procession beneath centuries of erosion. The Muslims arranged these carved stones into rectangular galleries and geometric rows, covering bare walls with Arabic inscriptions directed against unbelievers. Above everything, dominating the vast cemetery-like plain and inviolate through time, the Kutb throws its straight shaft of red stone and white marble two hundred and fifty feet into the sky — and Chévrillon closes his section with the image of the muezzin's chant breaking the silence of the great plain six centuries past, as the sun dropped behind the horizon.
By Esther Singleton · First published 1903 · Genre: Travel Writing, History, Architecture · 1,729 words
I. G. W. STEEVENS
Delhi is still seamed with the scars of her spoilers, and still / jewelled with remnants of the gems they fought for. If you take them in / order, you will go first, not into the city, but eleven miles south, / to the tower Kutb Minar. Through the dust of the road, rising out of / the springing wheat, among the mud-and-mat huts before which squat the / brown-limbed peasants, you see the country a litter of broken walls, / tumbling towers, rent domes. There are fragments of seven cities built / by seven kings before the present Delhi was. Eleven miles of them bring / you to the tower and mosque of Kutb.
Kutb Minar is listed on Textopian as an essay by Esther Singleton, dated 1903 CE.
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monument · architecture · Delhi · India · historical · UNESCO World Heritage · minaret · Indo-Islamic · medieval · brick structure · fortification · heritage site