
Esther Singleton's *The Vendramin-Calergi* presents a detailed descriptive account of the celebrated Venetian palace on the Grand Canal, drawing substantially on Théophile Gautier's firsthand observations during a visit when the palace was occupied by the Duchesse de Berry. The work proceeds as an ambulatory tour, moving room by room through the building's interior while situating the palace within its architectural and historical context. The palace's exterior is characterized as a work of rich and noble architecture, attributed to Pietro Lombardo, notable for its cherub-adorned entablature and the blue-and-white mooring posts bearing the fleur-de-lis that identify it as a semi-royal residence. Visitors arriving by water are received in a long vestibule that doubles as a landing stage, a feature Gautier identifies as common to Venetian palaces — vast, bare, furnished with little more than hitched gondolas and dying potted plants. From the vestibule, the tour ascends to an immense unfurnished hall and passes into a dining room hung with Bourbon family portraits, including likenesses of the Duchesse de Bourgogne, the Comte d'Artois, Madame de Lamballe, and a full-length Louis XV flanked by his daughters. A masked door within the dining room conceals a chapel so small it can accommodate barely six persons and only four prie-dieu. Adjacent rooms include a modern drawing room furnished in an English and Parisian style and hung with two portraits of the Duchesse de Berry — one by Lawrence, depicting her in white satin — and decorated with the luxurious domestic trifles that produce, in Gautier's phrase, a charming home-like feeling. The moral and aesthetic center of the palace, as both Gautier and Singleton present it, is a small salon containing thirty paintings by the greatest names in European painting. Among these, a Virgin by Andrea del Sarto is singled out as a work of such beauty as to unsettle even the most prosaic observer. This room, lit by a soft and evenly distributed light, Gautier identifies as the heart of the building, and he departs it with reluctance. A further salon houses two porphyry columns of extraordinary monetary value, though their placement before a doorway renders them aesthetically ineffective — a point Gautier reinforces with an unfavorable comparison to lapis lazuli in Genoa's Salon Serra, which he found similarly wasted. A last salon, unremarkable in decoration, contains four busts on bracket pedestals, including those of the Duc de Berry and Charles X. Singleton appends a note of more recent historical significance: the Vendramin-Calergi palace acquired additional renown when Richard Wagner died within its walls on February 13, 1883, a fact that substantially deepened the building's claim on the European cultural imagination beyond its Bourbon associations and its art collection.
By Esther Singleton · First published 1903 · Genre: Travel Essay, Architectural Criticism, Art History · 838 words
THÉOPHILE GAUTIER
Following a vagabond method, let us regain the Grand Canal and give some details upon the Vendramin Palace, now occupied by the Duchesse de Berry. It is of a rich and noble architecture, probably by Pietro Lombardo; in the entablature and above the windows, little cherubs uphold storied shields adorned with exquisite taste, and contribute much elegance to this facade. A garden of somewhat restricted space contributes some green trees alongside this palace, which would not be distinguished from the others if the large white and blue posts with ropes did not indicate, by means of the fleur-de-lis painted upon them, a princely and semi-royal dwelling.
Renaissance architecture · Venice · Venetian history · Italian palaces · Architectural heritage · Palace architecture · Renaissance period · European history · Art history · Interior design · Historic buildings · Cultural heritage
The Vendramin-Calergi is listed on Textopian as an article by Esther Singleton, dated 1903 CE.
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