
The work is a reflective travel narrative recounting a return visit to an ancient ruined city famously preserved by a catastrophic eruption centuries ago. The author compares his current experiences with those of an earlier visit, noting both the physical changes in the archaeological remains and the evolution of travel and tourism over time. He describes an eventful journey marked by small misadventures, such as handling counterfeit money and dealing with railway irregularities, which serve as a prelude to his observations on modern Italian society and the enduring presence of ancient relics. During his visit, the author observes that the ruins have expanded—new excavations revealing additional streets, houses, columns, and mosaics—yet the overall impression remains one of repetitive monotony. While the ancient artifacts and buildings retain their structural integrity and historical significance, their repetition diminishes the dramatic impact that might otherwise be expected from such a storied place. The narration intertwines descriptions of archaeological features, such as temples, baths, and private dwellings, with witty commentary on the guides, local vendors, and other travelers, including foreigners, whose behaviors contrast with traditional American travel attitudes. There is a recurring theme of comparison between ancient customs and modern life. The author muses on how the physical remnants of an entire civilization evoke interests that are both aesthetic and historical, yet the passage of time—the addition of modern political and technological developments—has subtly transformed both the ruins and the viewer himself. The narrative draws parallels between the ancient world’s mix of ritual, commerce, and everyday life and the contemporary commercialization of heritage sites, highlighting inconsistencies and human follies that persist over centuries. Also evident is a critique of modern tourism, as the author recounts how travel inconveniences, guide scams, and class distinctions on transportation add a layer of irony to the encounter with an immovable, ancient reality. He reflects on how the ancient city, despite its tragic past, now stands more as a lifeless monument—a skeleton of its once vibrant history—that nevertheless commands a kind of grim fascination. The ruin, unembellished by pathos, invites a solitary reflection on the transient nature of human endeavors and the inexorable passage of time. Overall, the work presents a blend of personal reminiscence and cultural commentary, contrasting past grandeur and modern decay, while underscoring the unchanged human impulse to seek meaning and authenticity in the relics of history.
By William Dean Howells · First published 1879 · Genre: Travel Literature, Historical Non-Fiction, Social Satire · 4,545 words
Because I felt very happy in going back to Pompeii after a generation, and being alive to do so in the body, I resolved to behave handsomely by the cabman who drove me from my hotel to the station. I said to myself that I would do something that would surprise him, and I gave him his fee and nearly a franc over; but it was I who was surprised, for he ran after me into the station, as I supposed, to extort more. He was holding out a franc toward me, and I asked the guide who was bothering me to take him to Pompeii (where there are swarms of guides always on the grounds) what the matter was. "It is false," he explained, and this proved true, though whether the franc was the one I had given the driver or whether it was one which he had thoughtfully substituted for it to make good an earlier loss I shall now never know. I put it into my pocket, wondering what I should do with it; the question what you shall do with counterfeit money in Italy is one which is apt to recur as I have hinted, and in despair of solving it at the moment I threw the false franc out of the car-window; it was the false franc I have already boasted of throwing away.
Pompeii Revisited is listed on Textopian as an essay by William Dean Howells, dated 1879 CE.
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travel · historical · archaeology · ruins · ancient history · Italy · Roman civilization · travelogue · non-fiction · cultural exploration · descriptive · observational