The Lachine Rapids

The Lachine Rapids by Esther Singleton

"The Lachine Rapids" traces the historical and geographical significance of Lachine, a site on the Island of Montreal where the St. Lawrence begins to widen into Lake St. Louis, framed by the dramatic rapids that give the location its name. The piece opens by connecting Lachine to René-Robert Cavelier de La Salle, the Norman-born explorer who held his first seigniory—Fort Remy—at this precise location beginning in 1667. La Salle's background is sketched with precision: raised for the Jesuit order but temperamentally unsuited to its demand for self-effacement, his immense individuality, ambition, and asceticism were redirected from the Church toward colonial enterprise. The name "Lachine" itself is explained as a taunt coined by La Salle's detractors, mocking his conviction that the waterways westward would lead him to China. Within two years of settling at Fort Remy, having mastered seven or eight Indigenous languages, La Salle abandoned the seigniory in pursuit of his overriding ambition: to reach the Vermilion Sea and thereby open a short route to the wealth of China and Japan—an ambition that ultimately resolved into the founding of a French colonial empire at the mouth of the Mississippi, once he determined that river's true course to the Gulf of Mexico. The piece then pivots from historical narrative to contemporary description. Modern Lachine is defined principally by the canal that bypasses the rapids, the rapids themselves, and the Canadian Pacific Railway Bridge, which the narrator positions as an ironic fulfillment of La Salle's original dream of a passage to the East. Lake St. Louis, into which the St. Lawrence opens nearby, is noted as a beloved summer resort for Montrealers. The rapids, seen from the bank, disappoint those expecting something like Niagara, but the experience of shooting them aboard the steamer that connects with Montreal's morning and evening trains is rendered as viscerally thrilling. The vessel's engines are slowed, the current assumes control, and the ship reels through turbulent green breakers and hissing white water, each wave striking the hull convincing inexperienced passengers that the craft is grounded and about to break apart. The narrator notes that the pilot from the neighboring Caughnawaga is no longer deemed necessary, and that a captain at ease in his chair with a cigarette is sufficient proof of the passage's safety, however terrifying the passage appears. A quotation from Dawson elaborates the hydraulic mechanics: trap dykes crossing softer limestone create a broken riverbed, the channel is tortuous, the fall considerable, and the combined effect makes the Sault St. Louis the most feared of the local rapids. The steamer's prow dips into eddies, spray washes the deck, and passengers are gripped by the spectacle of what appear to be continual near-misses with exposed rock—a sensation that repetition alone can normalize.

By Esther Singleton · First published 1906 · Genre: Travel Writing, History, Geography · 1,095 words

First lines

(_CANADA_) / DOUGLAS SLADEN

From St. Anne's to Lachine is not such a very far cry, and it was at Lachine that the great La Salle had his first seigniory. This Norman founder of Illinois, who reared on the precipices of Fort St. Louis the white flag and his great white cross nearly a couple of centuries before the beginnings of the Metropolis of the West, made his beginnings at his little seigniory round Fort Remy, on the Island of Montreal.

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Saint Lawrence River · Montreal history · Quebec · Canadian history · natural history · geographic description · rivers and waterways · water features · travel writing · exploration · colonial period · transportation history

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